Does anybody know what size is the outer bearing on the gearbox output shaft (part number 0813063067, the one that effectively serves as a wheel bearing)? I suspect it needs replacing but would like to have the thing ready to fit before pulling down to reduce off the road time. The parts lists don't quote a size for this one, but does for some of the other bearings in the transmission, which makes me suspect it may be a special size . Don't want to pay Suzuki prices for a £5 bearing.

Only just seen this, but what makes you think it's worn? It's rare indeed to have to replace a tranny bearing in the final drive.

Harshness, knocking under load.(not engine, clutch or variator so that pretty much points to tranny) While it's apart to investigate may as well replace to be sure.

Unless there is actual play in the output shaft, it's unlikely to be that bearing. But of course, there are several bearings. More likely to be worn are the needle roller bearings that carry the power transfer gear in the gearbox. Or the transfer gear itself or both. They do wear but normally after very high mileage or lack of maintenance. Knocking may indicate this to be the case as the transfer gear may be damaged if those bearings are very worn and the gear may be slipping during take off. That can produce a 'knock'. I guess you won't know until you do a strip.

Thank you for that. As I said, for the cost of a bearing I may as well replace them for peace of mind as it is a pain to strip down. Any tips on getting the idler bearings out as I suspect my puller is too big for them?

Think it is a 6306 bearing, found one for sale on ebay with picture of the part item no 282164007180

To get the bearings out you will probably only need a heat gun (decorators type). We never ever needed to use a puller on any gearbox bearings. I would not recommend using a flame gun, just the heat gun. So, heat up the area around the bearing and you will find that with enough heat, the bearings will just drop out, or need just a slight pull with a gloved hand. Don't direct the heat straight onto the bearing of course. They normally come out that easy. This technique can be used throughout an engine. A puller rarely needs to be used, unless you are unlucky! To put a new bearing back, just pop the bearing overnight in the freezer. Before fitting, just again heat up the crankcase or gearbox casing to a fairly hot heat. Next, lube the bearing with the very slightest amount of grease (just a tiny tiny bit on the outer edge of the bearing. Then pop it in the hole and you'll find it will mostly go all the way in without force. But tap it home with the old bearing as that will be an exact fit over the new one and will prevent damaging the inner race with any tapping you may carryout. Job done!

Well, job done! However, none of the blind bearings would move without an awful lot of heat and a slide hammer. The final drive bearing came out easy enough, but then it drifts out from inside the housing. All is quiet now, so at least one of the bearings was on the way out. Because it's such a pain to do I opted not to try to identify the culprit(s) but just change the lot, they are cheap enough. The idler shaft bearings came from the US for £40 the pair delivered,they are also used in Suzuki snowmobiles. Same part number but a lot less than getting them from Suzuki GB. All the others are standard bearings and came from a normal bearing supplier. Six hours start to finish with an hour for lunch.

Very well done schwalbe! You did well. It can be a pain to identify the culprit as you know and it seems you did the right thing. It saves time and hassle to do the whole lot. Did you use a genuine Suzuki gasket and seal set?

Hell no, I am a card carrying cheapjack. The sealing ring on the transmission cover was OK so I cleaned it and the mating surfaces up, helped by a bit of RTV gasket.