Taipan wrote:Yes looks like I'll have to take the dash out now.Might as well get it right. Clutch bell turned up today.
In other news it broke down tonight! 2 days before I go away!
It has cut out on idle a couple of times since i've had it but always starts straight up again. Tonight it just cut out at low speed as I was slowing down and I couldn't start it again? Had to push it to the side of the road where it fired straight up again!
Ho hum.
hi, there would be no point taking the dash out, if you thinking bulbs... the speedo rev counter and digi dash are sealed LED`s dont think you can get to them,
if the scoot stalls, firstly i would check the cleanliness of the side stand switch, just clean the area and plenty of wd40 on it and then back and forth to work the switch, and see if that does it, with the ignition then set to on put the side stand down and see if the system knows its up or down, you will hear the click and if bulb working see the red warning light up, just a thought.
if i look at the workshop manual for troubleshooting the below:
ENGINE START-UP PROBLEMS
Engine stops at idle / deceleration
EXHAUST BACKFIRES WHEN DECELERATING
they all seem to indicate the same points, some easy steps and some i have no ideas on, as never done them.. from what you have previously posted from day one and the yellow engine light being on , it comes on with Presence of faults detected by the self diagnosis system on the scoot, and comes on generally for the following reasons for the highlighted items above:
Presence of faults detected by the self diagnosis could be
Pump relay
H.V. coil
Injector
revolution timing sensor
Air temperature
Coolant temperature.
Atmospheric pressure
Correctness of the parameters the below is for all causes
Throttle valve position sensor
IF YOU REMEMBER YOU SAID: When I put the intake coupling back on I did notice there was a sensor in front of where it was split. I thought afterwards I probably should have cleaned that or at least inspected it. I'll do so when the new coupling arrives, THIS WOULD BE YOUR BEST INITIAL ACTION AS YOU CAN CLEAN IT WD 40 IT AND THE OTHER SIDE WHERE THE INJECTOR HAS A ELECTRICAL CONNECTION CLEAN AS WELL, ALSO CHECK THE TIGHTENING OF THE THREE BOLTS THAT HOLD THE THROTTLE BODY ( THINK OF IT AS AS CARBURETTOR) TO THE INTAKE TO ENSURE NO LEAKS TO THE INTAKE.
Stepper (
dont know about this
Coolant temperature sensor
if this was faulty then your electric fan would be on continuous when driving, so if its not you can eliminate this
Intake air temperature sensor
The sucked air temperature sensor is installed in the bottom side of the throttle body on the filter box
side. so this can also be checked when checking the above items
i would also check H.V. coil lead is tightly into the plug cap, unscrew if in doubt then retighten, also correct gap on plug Electrode gap
0.7-0.8 mm or a new plug if you got one NGK CR 7 EKB if you need to get one as a spare.
i would definitely get a good view of the throttle body and check connections as above, as a bad connection or untightened bolts to the intake will cause the warning light and backfiring , sucking in air and bad fuel mix, chin up lad the air mix has been wrong from the start and could all need a good clean, the injector could be dirty with all the unfiltered air, not sure what you could squirt in there , somebody will know, or if a petrol additive for cleaning injector could be used?????? keep posting....
