S-wing servicing and parts

[michaelphillips]

Sorry but the photo in the EBay listing is Power 1, not Power 1 Racing, so semi-synth.

Are you sure they ship Racing - can GN2 confirm?

ooops sorry.
when i looked at this one http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Castrol-Power ... 257eb452fd" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

it looks exactly like the one in his request listing, does not show any difference like an R in the bottle

[gn2]

Are you sure they ship Racing - can GN2 confirm?

The oil shipped to me was Castrol Power 1 and having got some on my fingers I can confirm that it is the slippery type of oil, so its ideal

[Dave Weller]

If you go over to Fully synthetic oil on an engine, keep a check on the oil level, initially it will flush out the residues in the valve seals and piston rings.

[primalcarl]

Yeah the seller confirmed it's just Power 1 not racing

Will pick some up on the way home don't need to replace the filer or plug yet anyway

One bonus of that kit is an O ring is included, something the Haynes manual recommends changing at the same time as the oil

[poldark]

Sorry but the photo in the EBay listing is Power 1, not Power 1 Racing, so semi-synth.

Are you sure they ship Racing - can GN2 confirm?

ooops sorry.
when i looked at this one http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Castrol-Power ... 257eb452fd" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

it looks exactly like the one in his request listing, does not show any difference like an R in the bottle

You're excused

Not your fault as the photo in that listing is also wrong, the Racing version is specified under the Power 1 text.

[MrGrumpy]

Not trying to start an oil thread, but if you want you engine to go and go I would suggest using a fully syn oil. There is a difference and many advantages. On a 125, the cost is not an issue as there is so little of it. These 125's work hard revving very high and the oil gets very very hot. Cheap lower grade mineral and many semi oils 'damage' very easily. They 'shred' their molecular chains very early and of course never recover, just allowing much more engine wear to take hold, which in turn makes the engine run even hotter. It was driven home to me last year when we were benching some engines on different oils. We called in the oil boffins for help solving particular wear patterns and we solved it by using a particular fully syn oil, which incidentally gave us between 5-6% more power at fully throttle due to less friction. Fully syn reduces wear to virtually zero in mostly all engines. Just my two pence worth...

Interesting....when I was having my TMax serviced a while back they mechanic asked what sort of oil he should put in....not cos he had any intention of obeying my requests, but for general amusement. He recommended the Semi-synthetic, reckoning that fully synthetic was only really needed for sportsbikes. On the other hand, I can see your point that 125s do work hard, though maybe they are designed to run (OK survive) on anything vaguely oily thats to hand - especially those that are designed to be used in less developed parts of the world.

[Sylar]

Data, i always use part Synthetic, going on the theory that up to about 20,000mls the engine is not truly run in. I would then think fully synthetic would be okay, is my thinking at fault?, I normally do 10,000mls per year.

[Data]

Data, i always use part Synthetic, going on the theory that up to about 20,000mls the engine is not truly run in. I would then think fully synthetic would be okay, is my thinking at fault?, I normally do 10,000mls per year.

Hi Sylar, no...your thinking is ok. There is not really any right or wrong to this. Except don't put fully syn in a bike that has not yet finished conforming ie: not done enough miles to allow the engine to fully run in. Which is what you are saying. It reduces the engines ability to conform so let that process finish first. You could use fully syn much earlier in your bikes though. The general rule of thumb, arrived at by the oil scientists is that air cooled engines normally finish conforming enough to use fully syn at 5,000 miles, and liquid cooled engines at 6,000 miles. The reason for the difference is the tighter tolerances on the liquid cooled engines and the better cooling preventing the running in process happening quite so quickly.

The main thing is...fully syn reduces engine wear to almost zero in any engine. Is that good or what? Doesn't matter what engine it is. It works. It can make the difference between getting to 100.000 miles or more trouble free and with no valve clearance adjustment, or maybe having to give the bike more maintenance on a semi or mineral. The small extra cost can in fact be recouped too as you get a bit more mpg and/or power. All proven. If you buy your fully syn from Johnson and Allen (biggest oil supplier in the UK) over the net with free delivery, it can cost less than semi.

And then there are the engines in bikes like Truimphs which have a mineral or semi syn oil in until the first service and then go to fully syn straight away before conforming has fully taken place. And cars of course which almost exclusively run fully syn from the word go. What about them? It's to do with the engineering, the way the engines are built and run that makes the difference. But won't go there. My disease will makes itself too prevalent! (Bluebottle knows what i'm talking about) It's already showing here....

[Bluebottle]

Longpostosis, it's a terrible affliction

Interesting reading. I switched to fully s. at 5000 miles but I was guessing based on air racing engines.
Thanks for sharing some of your engine knowledge

[SH125Paul]

I would go for a 5lt of Halfords 5w/40 fully synthetic and source HiFlo oil and air filters from MSA-Direct...
http://www.msa-direct.co.uk/honda_motor ... lters.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;