XMax250Paul wrote:Looks Nice and Tidy... Had a VXR200 Gilly...
I would recomend you get at the Exhaust NOW... Really...
Mine has seized on at the header Bolts, and the down tube rusted thru'
...

I ended up having to fit a Scorpion System - Noisy, Ill fitting thing...

I have a Race Can (Remus) on my CCM, and teh Kerker that was on teh Exup sounded luverly...
Just a race can on a twist n go, at a constant drone (no gear changes) was such a wind-up on a daily commute...

Nice looking scooter, enjoy it

can i have a go mr

XMax250Paul wrote:

XMax250Paul wrote:Looks Nice and Tidy... Had a VXR200 Gilly...
I would recomend you get at the Exhaust NOW... Really...
Mine has seized on at the header Bolts, and the down tube rusted thru'
...

I ended up having to fit a Scorpion System - Noisy, Ill fitting thing...

I have a Race Can (Remus) on my CCM, and teh Kerker that was on teh Exup sounded luverly...
Just a race can on a twist n go, at a constant drone (no gear changes) was such a wind-up on a daily commute...

So is it easy to get to the exhaust header bolts ?

andyscooter wrote:can i have a go mr

Since you asked so nicely

macp wrote:So is it easy to get to the exhaust header bolts ?

Yeah, wasn't too bad on the older style Runner...
Don't remember needing to strip any of the body work off when i replace the pipe / zorst system...
Bodywork may differ on the ST...
But use of a 1/4" socket and U/J may help...
Combination of Side Stand to Undo the bolts and then on to Center Stand to remove the header pipe - better access/clearance - if memory serves me well...

Also worth noting that the studs are not standard M6 thread but M7 and with Brass (or some such) Nuts in an attempt to stop em rusting seizing i seem to remember - i did have a 'letter' published in Twist N Go regarding this Q... Recommend you get some stainless M7 nuts..
http://www.twistngo.com/userforum/viewt ... 363bf90a1e

XMax250Paul wrote:

macp wrote:So is it easy to get to the exhaust header bolts ?

Yeah, wasn't too bad on the older style Runner...
Don't remember needing to strip any of the body work off when i replace the pipe / zorst system...
Bodywork may differ on the ST...
But use of a 1/4" socket and U/J may help...
Combination of Side Stand to Undo the bolts and then on to Center Stand to remove the header pipe - better access/clearance - if memory serves me well...

Also worth noting that the studs are not standard M6 thread but M7 and with Brass (or some such) Nuts in an attempt to stop em rusting seizing i seem to remember - i did have a 'letter' published in Twist N Go regarding this Q... Recommend you get some stainless M7 nuts..
http://www.twistngo.com/userforum/viewt ... 363bf90a1e

Thanks again Paul.

Well picked it up today and its a smashing little bike. The sheer pleasure of rolling up to traffic lights and not having to pull in the clutch and tapping down on the gearlever is so nice. I havent really explored the handling yet as im still getting used to it but it doesnt seem bouncy. The motor has plenty of good usable punch too which I was pleasantly surprised by. So overall im very pleased with it and im already having feelings of affection for it too.

Hoping to get stuck in and really mint it up tomorrow if weather allows.

Bitten
I'd never be without a twist n go in the garage now...

Absolutely and better still I filled the tank rode home around 60mls and the guage hadnt moved.